Desmond has a barrel

11 September 2010

Saturdays are market days in Alba, and because I have this idyllic idea of Italian markets, we went to see whether this market lived up it.

Alba is one of the bigger towns in the area, and it goes without saying that the drive there was a beautiful one through countless vineyards. This is one thing that the Italians seem very good at doing. Farming and building on slopes. And establishing little towns. If two towns are more than 5km apart, then that is quite far. This can make traffic circles, of which there are numerous, quite tricky. They are well signposted, but this means there are signs for about 5 to 10 towns on most circles. Add to this the signs for wine estates, and perhaps the odd business or guesthouse, you really have to know what you are looking for. It’s become quite fun navigating these traffic circle, and at the least bit of hesitation from my side, Niel would break into a Pavarotti-style version of “She’ll be coming round the mountain”, and continue to go around the circle, until either I stop laughing and figure out which way to go, or he starts feeling too embarrassed at acting like mr. Bean. Perhaps we should be adding some Italian-style hand gestures to this now fairly regular routine.

The market was a surprise to us both. There is a rather large square with a covered area in the centre. This is where you will find most of the fresh produce. This is then surrounded on the one side by some rather large camper vans that have been rigged out to sell cheese, meat or pasta, with huge glass display cabinets. On the other side, it continues with stalls selling everything from plants, bulbs, clothes, shoes, underwear, curtains, and even hardware stuff. There are so many stalls that they also spill over into the streets of the historic town centre. I was particularly excited to find what we used to know as Romanesca, a cross between broccoli and cauliflower. And even more excited to find some seeds for it.

From Alba, we started our way back to Barolo, stopping at the castle at Grinzane Cavour. It is said that, should you only have the opportunity to stop at one place in Piemonte for wine tasting, it should be here. The castle most definitely is impressive, with a beautiful view of the hills around it. Niel was slightly taken aback at being charged 3 euro for tasting. And that’s just for one wine.

Continuing our drive back to Barolo, we passed through Diano d’Alba, Rodello, where we were told that Il Faro restaurant serves a wonderful 11 course meal, Montelupo, and Monforte. It seems that this area has become a favourite escape for cyclists, as well as motorcyclists. And I’m not surprised. With winding roads and numerous inclines and declines, I can well imagine the driving and cycling pleasure this would bring.

Back in Barolo, Niel ventured off on a quest for more wine tasting. The levels of success varied from being charged 5 euro for a tasting of no more than about 100ml of wine, to having wonderful chats with some local farmers and winemakers. And the wines varied from an excellent 2005 Barolo for 28 Euro at Borgogno, (they also had a 1961 Barolo at about 600 Euro), to some less impressive wines. For the record, Barolo is a wine that is made of 100% Nebbiolo (a cultivar). You also find Barbera wines, made of the Barbera cultivar. Niel found the Barbera’s of Camerano & Figli, and Germano Angelo particularly good.

After supper at Osteria RossoBarolo, we attended a concert of some classical music performed on a piano and organ in the Chiesa di San Donato. I cannot say that it was a display of extreme virtuoso, but it was just so very pleasant to be sitting in the small church, surrounded by mostly the old ladies of the town, dressed in their very best Italian couture, a cellphone taped to a camera tripod to record the performance, and the wife and very excited daughter of the pianist next to us. And with Grieg’s Peer Gynt, and Mascagni’s Cavalleria rusticana, who could have wanted more.

I could happily retire here.

Barolo Region Map: http://maps.google.it/maps?hl=it&tab=wl

Osteria RossoBarolo: http://www.ristoranterossobarolo.com/news.php

Borgogno Wines: http://www.borgogno-wine.com/

Camerano & Figli Wines: http://www.cameranobarolo.net/

Germano Angelo Wines: http://www.vinigermano.com/?sez=fa