Little boxes on the hilltop

9 September 2010


We must be at the sea. A cool sea breeze makes for much more tolerable temperatures. And with the clouds, we might even get some rain.

Getting to Corniglia’s train station means about 370 steps. Fortunately, we needed to go down. There are a few ways of travelling between the five towns of the Cinque Terre. Travelling by road is possible, but parking is always a problem, and the roads are extremely narrow and windy, so this just tests the nerves to the n’th degree! Then there is a ferry which somehow stops at 4 of the 5 towns (Corniglia is not at sea level, so it misses the fun of boat trips). Unfortunately, the wind means choppy seas, which means – no ferry. *humph*

So we chose the train option. Should you take a train from the first town (Riomaggiore) to the last (Monterosso), it would take you all of about 30 minutes, including stops. And so, starting at Corniglia, we first went to Vernazza, the next town North, then to Monterosso al Mare (the Northern most town), then back down South to the first town – Riomaggiore. And from here – wait for it - we walked to Manarola, and back to Corniglia.

So perhaps I should just explain the walking bits, so you don’t laugh too much! Between Riomaggiore and Manarola, there is a 1km trail along the coastline called the Via dell’Amore, or the Lovers’ walk. It’s no more than a 20minute walk, with breathtaking views of the coastline. And from Manarola to Corniglia is about another kilometer, although that one felt a bit longer, and had some uphill walking. This brings you back to Corniglia’s station. And no – we did not have to climb those 370 steps again. There is a cute little bus that takes the exhausted up to the town.

Visiting each of these towns, Niel kept on wondering why someone would want to build a town on such a mountainous coastline. Monterosso, the most modern, and least quaint of them all, is by far also the most walkable in terms of inclines, while Riomaggiore has such a steep main street, that you are almost forced to stop at the various shops along the way, if only to catch your breath. All the towns, except Corniglia, have harbours. But these are really miniscule, and fishing boats are really just very small two-man boats, with possibly an outboard engine. I could not help but wonder where exactly a ferry would moor.

We had a late lunch in Manarola, with Niel having the best fish he has had in a very long time, if not ever, and after the walk back to Corniglia, bought gelato for dessert, and decided to go sit on the benches with the old town folk. They certainly seemed rather confused at the way we disrupted their daily routine, with the men greeting, but only just, and the old ladies being slightly more friendly.

So these old people must have spent their lives building these villages, which then subsequently became Unesco World Heritage sites, and became overrun by toursists. At times, today, I felt like being as abrupt with some tourists, as we have experienced the Italians being somewhere between abrupt and rude with us (I had my train tickets and change virtually chucked at me today!). I suspect that, if you only managed to understand the old folk, you would hear them wishing that all these foreign people would go back to their countries. Well – at least those old folk that don’t run restaurants or shops, perhaps.

Today, we encountered some rarities. Some really beautiful old villages. Excellent food. An Afrikaans couple. A guesthouse owner knocking on our door in her pyjama’s for our payment. And a really friendly Italian at an internet cafe. They do exist after all : )